Sa Calobra

It is the world's most incredible cul-de-sac.

Everyone needs that one friend that suggests things to do that are completely off the wall. “We have to run 25 kilometres in the middle of winter to a ‘not-that-nearby’ lake?”, and “that 200k cycle, we should cycle the 20 km to the start?”. Mark is that friend, and he has a way of making it seem crazy not to do these things. Unfortunately I am the friend that always says ‘yes’ to these hairbrained ideas. Barry, well, Barry is the Lieutenant Murtaugh of this little group of amigos. Barry likes to state that he is “too old for this shit” but invariably does it anway, and loves it. It is with this context in mind that we decided to cycle over 100 kilometres around Mallorca two days after completing the 70.3, and take on its most notorious climb, Sa Calobra. 

Sa Calobra is a bucket list climb, so trying to cycle it while we were in Mallorca made some sort of perverse sense. Yes, we would have to contend with tired legs and depleted energy reserves, however even on a good day it is not an easy climb. It is even not that easy to get to. Rarely do you have to cycle to the summit of a climb before being able to take it on, but that is what the cycling gods dictate for Sa Calobra. To be allowed the privilege of climbing it, we would first have to cycle 50 kilometres from Alcudia, gaining 700 metres in elevation. After reaching the summit we would then descend to the port of Sa Calobra along the only road in and our way out, the infamous Sa Calobra Climb. 

We set off in good spirits on Monday morning, following the same route out of Alcudia as the 70.3 took. This time we made sure to take in the scenery. We were expecting tired legs, and were pleasantly surprised how well we were moving as we ticked off the first ten kilometers. What we were not expecting was the mental tiredness that was all too evident when we missed our turn and cycled five kilometers in the wrong direction. If that did not wake us up, the first section of climbing quickly did. We cycled the same 35 kilometres to take you to the peak of the 70.3 cycle route, only this time instead of turning right and heading back down, we turned left and continued up. As the road continued up we had our first experience of the busy tourist traffic that can make this route uncomfortable for cyclists. Thankfully at this time of year the traffic was relatively light, and by the time we had reached the Summit of Sa Calobra we had only encountered a small number of coaches. 

The descent down to the port of Sa Calobra was awesome. The exhilaration of powering down the mountain is best expressed through the voice of a rally driver co-pilot “Long straight, pedal hard - easy right, then easy left, flat out -  Hard on the breaks, hairpin left under tunnel - flat out - break hard, hairpin left - pedal hard - break hard hairpin right…..”. For ten kilometres full concentration was required as we accelerated down the mountain. Although there were cars on the route it was not until we neared the port that they became a hindrance. What was surprising is how poor the surface was on some sections of the road. Mallorca is often spoken about as a cycling mecca, both due to the abundance of great routes, and the quality of the road surfaces. Unfortunately during my time on the island I found the second point lacking. 

After devouring a bowl of ketchup with some french fries on the side, and simultaneously drinking caffeine in cola and cappuccino form, we were ready to take on the climb. Climbing is an individual endeavour, and one kilometer in we had all gone our separate ways. My way would be the slowest, a fact I was more than comfortable with as I spun my legs and watched Mark and Barry cycle off into the distance. The climb averages a consistent 7%, which means you start working at the bottom and don’t stop until you reach the top. This consistency also allows you to maintain a steady rhythm, something I tried to do during the first half of the climb. It is the second half of the climb where both the scenery and the cycling get more interesting. The multiple hairpin bends provide a dramatic view of the rugged landscape as it tumbles its way into the sea. These bends also require more effort as the gradients in each corner go into double figures. Each bend however, marked a milestone, once around the bend I would return my saddle and know I was another few metres nearer to the top. 

The top of Sa Calobra is iconic. The first  sense of achievement comes one kilometre from the top when you see the famous arch. After a few more hairpins you get to cycle under the arch and then loop around over it as you cycle the last 400 metres to the top. The gradients do not ease until you unclip at  its summit but when you do you can appreciate it and begin to understand why this climb regularly features on the top 10 list of cycling must-dos. It is a climb that has everything, beautiful views, glorious bends, astounding geological features, but most of all it has a sense of the ridiculous, a key characteristic for all great cycling climbs. It is a feat of engineering that borders on the bonkers, with its only purpose being to take people to a port that is only worth going to because of the road in. It is the world's most incredible cul-de-sac.

With the cycle back to our hotel mostly down hill, we covered 30 kilometres over the hour following Sa Calobra. Our route then turned right towards Pollenca before taking us down narrow lanes away from traffic. We were ready to be done, yet the lanes felt like a labyrinth leading us further into nowhere. We followed these lanes, lost between abandoned houses and long neglected fields, hoping each turn would be our last, only to be disappointed as another lane would then stretch out in front of us. Eventually a roundabout appeared bringing us back into Alcudia, and just as our hotel came into view the heavens opened. Rather than adding to the misery, we felt lucky. Lucky to be on this island to compete in another Ironman 70.3, lucky to be able take on the amazing cycle route to Sa Calobra, lucky to have the support of friends and family on our adventurous, and lucky that after all this it was only now with the end in sight that the rain fell and washed away the sweat and despondency. We are lucky.  

The Route: Alcudia - Sa Calobra - Alcudia