Naas to Sligo - Bikepacking First

Karen and I have wanted to try bikepacking for some time. Travel, adventure, and cycling, all rolled into one, it seemed like a perfect fit. We were conscious however, that it could also go horribly wrong. Route planning issues, mechanicals, and bad weather could easily turn a pleasant trip into a holiday from hell. In the end we got all three and thoroughly enjoyed it. 

Ok, before I go any further, there are no tents or bivvy bags in this story. We did not eat rehydrated food straight from the bag or filter water taken from a river. So maybe it is not bikepacking in the strictest sense of the term, all I know is it was awesome. 

Day One - Naas to Lough Rynn

We set off just after 07:30 on Saturday morning. It was a warm and blustery start as we cycled through Sallins and then Clane. It was after Clane that we turned off busy roads and I was finally able to settle into the cycle. The quiet back roads, devoid of traffic were a joy to cycle through and full of character. We passed dilapidated houses that looked like they had not been lived in for 100 years, and brand new ultra-modern builds where we could see the people inside eating breakfast, through the expansive glass facades. One hour and thirty minutes into our trip we turned on to the Royal Canal Greenway. We would follow the greenway for the next 60 kilometres. 

At first the canal path was enjoyable, a novelty. We were away from traffic, and the compressed gravel surface was easy to cycle on. The kilometres rolled by as we comfortably averaged 24 kilometres per hour. Maybe it was the thought of Coffee and Cake up ahead, but as the greenway progressed it got monotonous. There were not enough visual changes to provide a sense of progress and the frequent stops to cross roads or go through gates added to the sluggish feel.  We were relieved when we began seeing road signs for Mullingar. The number of pedestrians on the greenway increased as we neared the town, giving a feeling we were returning to civilization. Just as the skyline of the town appeared, and the proximity to coffee neared, I heard the rumbling of a flat tyre. To add to the problem, I quickly discovered that the tool needed to remove my front wheel was missing. Thankfully just off the greenway I found a bike shop and it’s very helpful owner. In no time at all we were sitting in patisserie 2210 drinking coffee and eating cake. Halfway. 

We returned to the greenway, and the canal when leaving Mullingar. It was another 40 kilometres of gates, road crossings, and repetitiveness, this time with the added annoyance of a head wind. We finally turned off the canal at the 90 kilometre mark, and cycled through small towns, and up and downhills. It wasn’t easy but it was a return to enjoyable cycling, until the hunger pangs kicked in. Lunch was needed. We knew there were plenty of options in Longford town, and began audibly counting down the kilometres as we neared it.  When we reached zero and realised we had still further to go, the groans we uttered out matched the rumblings from our stomachs. Thankfully we found a place just as we entered the town and quickly ordered. Stomachs full and silenced, we wasted no time getting going again. 

The last leg of our first day was 23 kilometres long, and we knew that at the end there was a hot shower and a comfy bed. This final stretch was on quiet roads, and we made steady progress. As the kilometres neared 135 km however, there was no indication we were nearing our hotel. At each bend and turn we searched for road signs that would confirm we were headed in the right direction, but each time we would be disappointed. At 137 kilometres we contemplated stopping and there was a suggestion of throwing the bikes in a ditch. Thankfully we ignored this vocal frustration and not too much further saw a road sign pointing to Lough Rynn Castle. Moments later we pulled up outside this gorgeous old building and placed our bikes along the old stone wall, just as a bridal party in full dress, walked by. The bride and groom did not seem to mind our intrusion into their celebrations. Day one was done. 

Day Two - Lough Rynn to Coolaney

Lough Rynn Castle turned out to be a beautiful hotel and a perfect stop off for our trip. We ate dinner in the bar the evening after we arrived, where I enjoyed one of the nicest burgers I have ever eaten. We loaded up on carbs over breakfast, and even enjoyed a walk around the grounds before our departure. When we remounted the bikes our legs felt fresh, unfortunately it quickly became apparent that my derrière was unaccustomed to multi day cycling.  Thankfully we only had 20 kilometres to go before our first stop of the day. Those 20 kilometres set the tone for the day ahead. We snaked our way towards Carrick-on-Shannon, avoiding the main roads, and busy traffic. We cycled through the small towns of Drumsna and Jamestown, towns bypassed by the national roads and now pristine villages, beautifully maintained, with historical features proudly on show. 

In Carrick-on-Shannon we ate lunch and drank coffee, knowing our refuelling options were limited in the 60 kilometres that remained. After passing through Leitrim, we turned on to old country roads. These boreens were barely wide enough for a single car. We cycled side-by-side, each sharing a narrow track of tarmac that straddled the grass growing down the middle. When an old rumbling tractor came along, we dismounted and stood to the side allowing it to pass. These roads felt untouched by time, and the fields that framed them were a deep colour that could only be described as an Irish green. At the 45 kilometre mark, we emerged from this trip back in time to the sight of Lough Arrow. As we cycled around the lake we happened upon the ruins of an old monastery. We stopped to take some photos and to take it all in. 

In the final 30 kilometres we passed through towns that were eerily quiet, experiencing Sundays as the rest day they used to be. We stopped for ice cream in a garage, knowing we had only 10 kilometres to go. The final kilometres were on familiar roads, and when we climbed towards our destination, we were ready to be done. Relatives welcomed us as if we had won medals at the Olympics and a herd of cows trotted over to investigate. Our first bikepacking adventure done, and it won’t be our last.